GETTING PSYCHED

Our understanding of climbing as a sport has progressed immensely. It became very clear through the 80's and into the early 90's that training is the golden ticket that gives you access to climbing your hardest, which cannot be better exemplified than through the steep rise of climbing grade achieved through that time.

From the first British sport climb established by Ben Moon, to Wolfgang Gullich and the world's first 9a, to Adam Ondra pushing the envelope through to 9c, training has been the unequivocal linchpin that has let people push the limits of human achievement.

At Psyched, we continue this tradition by capitalising on emerging and established sports science principles then applying them to a climbing specific context. We use the latest technology to assess the attributes that have been identified in the scientific literature as deterministic for climbing performance, which clearly identifies the attributes that are limiting your performance, and builds an exercise program tailored to your specific physiology.

No more guess work with how much weight to add or how long to hang.

No more generalised prescriptions taken from the Google machine.

Let's stop guessing and start assessing, and help you

harness your potential.

FAQ

Here to Help

WHAT DO I GET WITH THE ATHLETIC PROFILE?

Our profiling assessment covers strength, rate of force development, anaerobic capacity and flexibility, in a variety of climbing specific movements.

All of which are compared to your personal anthropometric measures, to give your Strength:Weight ratios, Dynamic Strength Indexes, both of which are compared to our database to indicate climbing grade potential.

You will also receive a 4 week program tailored to your physiology, load calculations tables to extend your training, and weekly email contact for any questions you may have.

WHAT IF I JUST WANT MY STRENGTH ASSESSED?

The tool and procedures we have developed are extremely versatile, and we are happy to perform strength assessments tailored to your needs.

Want to know how strong your pinky toe is? Come on down!

I HAVE TWEAKED A FINGER, WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Michael believes strongly in exercise as medicine, and that each injury and person has specific needs in order to return to sport. Unfortunately it will never be as simple as 'do this exercise to fix this injury', it is far more nuanced.

However, finger tweaks typically mean an overload in the connective tissue, either acutely (pulling hard one day and it hurts) or chronically (always just a bit niggly). Connective tissue loves intensity, and frequency of loading, but gets a bit cranky when the volume and velocity of loading is too high. Monitoring those variables in your rehabilitation is the key to a successful recovery.

The general process to follow would be an assessment by our inhouse Clinical Exercise Physiologist to determine the mechanism of injury and contributing factors. Assessments specific to the site of injury will be performed to determine the current pain and functional limitations, and the results will guide the rehabilitation parameters and timeframes to return to sport.

DO YOU JUST ASSESS CLIMBERS?

No! Michael is an Accredited Exercise Physiologist with a wealth of knowledge and experience in a number of sports, both for training and rehabilitation.

The assessment procedure used can be easily tailored to any human movement, and is particularly potent with large functional movements like a squat or deadlift.

DO YOU PROVIDE HEALTH INSURANCE REBATES?

As an Allied Health Professional Michael is fully qualified and registered to provide private health insurance rebates.

The amount of cover is dependent on your health fund. Simply contact your provider and quote the item codes 102 (for an initial assessment) and 202 (for subsequent sessions) to determine the rebate amount.